Store-ready checklist (Home Depot / Home Hardware), generated from
the cut list. Lumber qty comes from the kerf-aware nesting — board
counts match the cut diagram exactly. Prices are approximate
CAD — confirm at the store. Bring the cut list
(BUILD_PLAN.md §4) + cut diagram.
Subtotal: $450
Subtotal: $198
The 3 casework pieces — bookshelf headboard · drawer cabinet · bedside table — can be built two ways, same finished sizes either way. Buy everything above PLUS one option.
Option 1 total: $424
Lighter pieces + easier joinery (brad the skin onto solid frame faces — no edge-grain screwing); costs about the same to a bit more. Build method + per-piece frame layout:
planning/ALT_FRAMED_CASEWORK.md. Keep the ¾” book SHELVES solid (on cleats) — don’t put books on a hollow skinned shelf.
Option 2 total: ~$450 (SPF) to $790 (poplar) — the ~36 sticks of frame stock are the swing, and a rough estimate; verify counts against your actual cut.
Subtotal: $46
Subtotal: $622
Subtotal: $120
Subtotal: $155
Base = everything above EXCEPT the casework option ≈ $1,592. Add ONE:
Durable goods + tool-aisle consumables (NOT in the build subtotal). Method: no router, no table saw — casework = pocket screws + glue + brad-nailed backs; the ladder tread DADOS are cut on the compound mitre saw’s depth stop (narrow stringers, so no router needed). Sheet-goods breakdown is all at home, solo — no store cut desk: see
output/.../HOME_CUT_PLAN.mdfor the rip/crosscut sequence.
Already have (Ryan): compound mitre saw · circular saw · drills + drivers · orbital sander · staple gun.
Buy — tools: - [ ] Pocket-hole jig (Kreg 320/520) — casework + queen-frame joinery (~$60–110) - [ ] 18ga brad nailer — back panels, trim, the wall panel, glue clamping-aid (~$120–180 cordless, or pneumatic + a small compressor) - [ ] Kreg Universal Rip-Cut circular-saw jig (KMA2400) — guides every plywood rip AND the wide crosscuts (no cut desk to do those anymore); built-in arm auto-sets widths up to 24” off the sheet’s factory/cut edge — beyond 24”, clamp its rail as a plain straightedge on a marked line (~$60–70) - [ ] Plywood-cutting circular-saw blade (fine-tooth, 40–60T) — swap in for all sheet-goods cuts; the stock framing blade tears the face veneer (~$25–45) - [ ] 2” rigid foam board, 4x8 — full-sheet cutting support (lay flat on the floor/sawhorses, cut all the way through into it — keeps a whole sheet supported and controlled solo) (~$30–40) - [ ] Circular-saw guide (Milescraft) — kept for the French-cleat 45° bevel rip on the 2x6 (the Kreg jig above now does the plywood rips) (~$40) - [ ] Sawhorses — Anvil 2-Pack 39” ($39.88) — 300 lb capacity EACH (600 lb/pair), folds flat for storage, ready out of the box. Skip the Bora Jobhorse brackets ($49.98, 1,000 lb combined but needs you to already have cut 2x4 legs/beam first — a chicken-and-egg step, and this build never puts anything close to 600 lb on a sawhorse) unless you specifically want taller/custom-height horses - [ ] Bar/pipe clamps — 6 at 24–36” (panel + torsion-box glue-ups; ~$15–25 ea) - [ ] Quick-action / pocket-hole face clamps — 4-6 (Kreg Face Clamp or similar one-handed clamp) — holds each pocket-screw joint FLUSH while you drive the screw; you own zero clamps today and pocket joinery is the primary joint in this build, so this isn’t optional (~$15–20 ea) - [ ] Spring clamps — 6-8 assorted small (light glue-ups, holding trim while glue sets; cheap, ~$3–6 ea) - [ ] Socket/ratchet set — sized for the 1/2” lag screws + the Lee Valley bed bolts - [ ] Bits: countersink · 4” hole saw (Govee downlights) · 1” spade/forstner (bed-bolt cross-dowel bores) · 3/8” bit (bed-bolt clearance holes) · 5/16” pilot + 1/2” clearance bit (the ledger/foot-rim LAG screws — easy to miss since it’s only mentioned in BUILD_PLAN’s connection notes, not skip it) · 35mm Forstner bit (bedside door EURO/CONCEALED hinge cups — check whether your hinge kit already includes a boring jig/bit before buying a separate one) · plug cutter (3/8” or matching your bolt-head counterbore) + wood plugs — every bed-bolt counterbore gets plugged for the concealed look; cut your own from offcuts or buy pre-made · general pilot/drill bit set (the pocket-hole jig comes with its OWN stepped drill bit — don’t buy a second one)
Buy — consumables (don’t skip): - [ ] 5” hook-and-loop sanding discs (DeWalt random-orbit) — 100/120 grit ×10, 150 grit ×10, 220 grit ×15 (buy assorted multi-packs, don’t hunt exact counts) — sized for this build’s visible surface: every stain-grade solid board (spindles, rails, beam, treads, posts) PLUS the torsion-box top skin and all 3 casework sheets get sanded, and the 220-grit pre-stain pass touches EVERY one of those faces, so it’s the highest-volume grit. Add a few sanding sponges/hand blocks for inside corners (niche returns, cabinet interiors) the round disc can’t reach. No belt sander needed — nothing in this build is a big flat glue-up that needs aggressive leveling (pocket-screw casework assembles to finished size already); if one torsion-box top-skin board ever sits slightly proud of its neighbour, the random-orbit sander (or a hand plane) knocks it down fine - [ ] Wood glue (PVA, white or yellow) + construction adhesive (PL Premium) — casework glue-ups, the torsion box, the wall panel — itemized/costed under Stain & finish above; buy 2 bottles of glue, not 1 — a full glue-up day runs you dry faster than expected - [ ] Pocket screws (1-1/4” + 2-1/2” coarse) + 18ga brad nails (1”–2”) - [ ] Wood screws 2-1/2” + 1-1/4” + structural screws 3-1/8” — framing, cabinets, rails > The build fasteners — 1/2” lag screws · bed-bolt sets · drawer slides + pulls/handles · wood + > structural + pocket screws · 18ga brad nails · adhesive · caulk · stain + poly — are all > itemized & COSTED in the Hardware & fasteners / Trim / Stain & finish sections above; > this list just makes sure the tool-aisle consumables aren’t forgotten.
Not needed: router · table saw · biscuit/domino · cam/RTA hardware · belt sander.
Regenerate: python3 planning/shopping_list.py (after
any dimensions.json change).